food (com)modification


December 28th, 2006

a couple of weekends ago i went to see michelle simon speak about her new book, “Appetite for Profit: How the Food Industry Undermines Our Health and How to Fight Back“. she talked about some of major corporate food supply problems, such as how food producers have the same shareholder issues as any other publicly traded company: you have to make your investors happy, you have to turn a profit – BY LAW, which makes it nearly impossible to do anything drastic. instead, what we get is “whole grain fruity pebbles”, the same products that they know people will buy, just slightly different to appease the new regulations and ease public qualms about unhealty food.

many people will argue to the end that health is a personal choice, and that everyone has the option to NOT buy junk food and that it’s their own free will that drives the demand for processed foods. what we know about marketing, however, and how insidious it is and how deceiving it can really be makes this argument fall flat. how can people be responsible for their own health with a market full of junk labelled as nutritious? think of all the “healthy” foods that are sitting in the aisles of grocery stores that are really NOT – “lean cuisine” frozen processed dinners, “low fat” potato chips, “diet” sodas full of sugar substitutes, weird “fruit flavored” waters and candies and juices filled with corn syrup.

HEALTHY does not (should not) just mean non-fattening, it means non-TOXIC and SAFE, which, unfortunately, most food in your average Safeway or Kroger isn’t.

Michele Simon stated: “We have an incredibly unhealthy population and we have the richest population in the world. There’s something wrong. There’s something wrong with how we’re being sold food, there’s something wrong with how food is being produced, there’s something wrong with selling children on the worst kind of food there is. All these things are really questionable and we have to do something about that.

she also talked a lot about how not only is the average mass-produced food unhealthy but marketed as wholesome due to some “enrichment” of the products, the entire “health food industry” has a terrible method of focusing on single, targeted ingredients. you’ve walked into a GNC, right? hundreds and hundreds of bottles of pills, all supposed to increase this or that. the food industry does the same thing with ingredients – instead of focusing on whether the WHOLE food is good for you, they focus on ingredients, because it’s easier to manage. it’s easier to replace one ingredient in a food than find a new food. for example: the current war against trans fats. while it is a most excellent precedent that a government is attempting to rid such an unhealthy ingredient from the food supply, the better argument here is whether the battle against trans fats is the best use of focus and resources in terms of public health. you can bet hundreds of thousands of dollars are being invested in this campaign – but what’s the next step? the food industry is just going to create a replacement ingredient that will probably not be any better for you in the long run – just different.

there are serious issues with this “ingredient-based” approach to public health and FDA management. are “trans fat free cheetos” really better for you? and not only that, but targeting one ingredient in wholly unhealthy food actually creates marketing for these super-processed food producers. they don’t even have to come up with their own “new and improved” marketing campaigns anymore- the FDA does it for them. ingredient X is found to be harmful and/or getting bad press, so replace ingredient X with new fabricated ingredient Y and presto! “new and improved, ingredient-X free! now with ingredient Y!” they barely had to change a thing, and suddenly they’re marketing a new, “healthier” food.

so yay for the landmark action in NY, which sets a necessary precedent but doesn’t do much else unless it’s taken a step further, but i honestly don’t think it will make much of a difference in our nation’s overall health. just like whole-grain Fruit Loops aren’t good for your kids, trans fat-free french fries still aren’t good for you. this is all a really big waste of time if the FDA isn’t willing to actually put pressure on the food industry to change their WHOLE food system, which will never happen because, as mentioned, our food sources are currently corporately controlled and thereby beholden to their shareholders to turn profit, and the only way to continually turn a profit is to produce cheaper and cheaper food. sure, if General Mills started only producing whole grain, marshmallow and artificial color-free cereals, consumers would be in for a bit of a culture shock for a while. but how long? a few months, maybe? people would get over it. people have to buy food at stores, and the food producers and distributors control what’s on the shelves. therefore, they’re much more responsible than the consumers for heading up the change on this front.

don’t get me wrong, consumers still have a lot of power to choose and support healthy foods. but for how long?

for example, in other food commodification news, there’s this:
FDA approves cloned food?!

for those of you still eating meat, does this not FREAK YOU OUT?? this article in the Chron the other day made an interesting argument about how people are always complaining about the government making decisions about health based upon ethics (like the morning after pill, for example), and since the recent FDA decision to OK cloned meat and dairy for the consumer market assumes that there is nothing scientifically wrong or “weird” (for lack of a more scientific term) with cloned animals, basing an FDA decision on whether it’s ok to sell them for food based on ethics or morals would be wrong.

The FDA decision is based on a substantial cache of data from rigorous studies, all of which have concluded that milk and meat from cloned animals is virtually identical to such products from conventional animals. Scientists have also been unable to detect health problems in laboratory animals raised on clonal food.

By contrast, studies have found that consumers’ discomfort with the idea of eating food from clones is largely based on vague emotions. Indeed, polls have repeatedly found that the public understands little about what cloning really is.

That raises the issue: Should decisions such as this one be based solely on science, or should officials take into account public sensitivities, which may be unscientific but are undeniably real?

the FDA says consumers are confusing cloning with genetic modification, and that’s why they’re upset. but no – some of us know the difference. so, outside of moral/ethical/creepyness issues, what are the potential scientific complications (medical, genetic, or otherwise) with selling cloned meat and dairy that they’re not telling us? they’re telling us that clones are “exactly the same” as the parents, and that this process will help breed only the yummiest, strongiest, healthiest animals for consumption. but wait… really? no problems with clones? let’s see…

the CBC recently did a story on cloning that addresses this issue:

Cloning also raises health concerns. Researchers have found that cloned mammals tend to die soon after birth. Those that survive often show genetic abnormalities that cause problems to their tissues and organs. Dolly the sheep, for example, aged faster than normal. She developed premature arthritis and progressive lung disease. Dolly, 6, was euthanized in February 2003; sheep normally live to about age 12.

other problems with clones, besides shorter life spans: compromised immune systems, which means they’re on high levels of antibiotics which are then put into the food chain when you eat them, and developmental problems. not to mention all the things at the genetic level which might be hidden and won’t be seen for a few more generations…

so now, just like with produce where the producers of NORMAL food have to write “NON-GMO” on their products to differentiate, not the other way around, the FDA has said with this announcement that they don’t see a need for labels telling consumers about the cloned food. so, meat eaters, in the very near future, unless your meat/dairy says “CLONE-FREE“, assume it’s clone.

what does that leave us with, then? the majority of our non-organic vegetables are GMO, and our non-organic meat and dairy is soon to be cloned. those of us with access to organic food are truly in the minority in the world, so how much choice does the average american really have then, when they walk into an average supermarket, to buy safe, healthy food? not much.

as a side note: in the past few years i’ve tried to narrow down my interests into things of which i could conceivably go back to grad school for and make a career. right now, i have a good JOB with the environment, but i do not have a CAREER with the environment, and i’m not actually sure that i want to. i have been thinking over the past year or so that instead of fighting toxics in our rivers, i’d rather be fighting toxics in my food. i mean, yes, they are all related: you can’t have clean food without a clean environment, but things like the cloning issue and how the FDA does not even consider that consumers need to KNOW what they’re eating really poses a specific threat, i think, and i have been increasingly considering public health/food ethics as a focus for my future.


4 Responses to “food (com)modification”

  1. Rachel on December 29, 2006 4:44 am

    This is an issue near and dear to my heart now that I am responsible for another human being. It’s scary as hell, even without the worry about cloned food and whatnot. The studies that show girls getting their periods as early as age six (SIX!) being linked to rBGH in milk is horrifying and you can bet that The Jillian will be drinking milk from as close to the actual cow as we can get. Luckily, we live in New Jersey, which despite its reputation has a number of excellent organic farms and co-ops. Will it be more expensive? Oh, yes, but in the long run, I’d rather be poor and healthy than save 50 cents on Pringles and have my heart stop when I’m 63.

    I hate the way we as a society feed our children. My SIL, who was as crunchy-granola as the next hippie went all crazy when her son was born, to the tune of feeding him that boxes mac-n-cheese and all sorts of crazy-processed chikin nuggets and french fries “because that’s all he will eat.” Well, DUH. The kid will eat WHAT YOU FEED HIM. Especially when the kid is tiny and you’re the sole provider of his food! GAH!

    I’ve been thinking really hard about going back to school to become a Registered Dietician. Barring that, I would at least like to take some classes on nutrition and possibly set myself up as a nutritionist. Food is SO important and SO scary these days!

  2. Jon on December 29, 2006 9:55 am

    This is a tricky issue. I would never try to argue that mass produced food isn’t full of a lot of junk that we don’t need or want in our food, at the same time we need to be intellectually honest. And the fact is that in historical terms our food is amazingly healthy and safe. Our “unhealthy population” is enjoying a life span and quality of life (in terms of how free we are from injury and disease) that is again, simply amazing. Common farmers in the 1800′s eating their healthy organic food did not grow up getting the nutrition that today’s school kids who are hopped up on fruitloops and soda get. And they did not grow to be as large or live as long as us as a result.

    I heard it said that American’s have the most expensive urine in the world, which is to say we piss away more vitamins than most people even consume.

    Are there problems with the chemicals and bioengineering that got us here and how food companies are thinking more of the bottom line than of our health? Yes, of course. But what we eat, when viewed by some long lived alien who is surveying our progress as a species, is now closer to what our bodies need than in any time in history. We need to wrap our arguments around that reality and promote how much better it can be without lead and phosphates and antibiotics in our system. But we can’t scientifically argue with any intellectual rigor that our food is killing us. Most Africans would gladly take the onset of cancer in 30 years over certain malnutrition today if offered the choice. And before I get pounded on too hard here, please be aware I am playing devil’s advocate and I don’t eat meet or junk food or any animal products except ocassionally cheese and very rarely honey, so I am not saying Kraft and General Mills have my best interests at heart. But epidemic obesity is a disease that most societies through time would have loved to achieve.

  3. amy.leblanc on December 29, 2006 10:21 am

    jon, good points, but i would also argue that advancements in medicine have way more to do with our longer lifespans that the quality of our food supply.

    and pissing away vitamins also does not equal high quality food – most of the vitamins we piss away are from additives and supplements, not from the actual natural food sources. in fact, our food sources are so depleted of natural minerals, vitamins, and micronutrients due to overfarming of soil that they HAVE to artificially enrich them to make them nourishing. they just overdo it, thus, we piss the extra out.

    and to say that “Most Africans would gladly take the onset of cancer in 30 years over certain malnutrition today if offered the choice” is a pretty bold and misguided tatement – of course if you’ve spent your life starving you’d say that. how many africans live long enough to experience cancer to know the difference?

    “ut we can’t scientifically argue with any intellectual rigor that our food is killing us.”
    i disagree very strongly. i would say that our food is killing us, but modern medicine is treating the illnesses caused by our food supply and keeping us alive. it’s a pretty unnatural cycle, actually.

  4. Jon on December 30, 2006 11:50 am

    Amy, I respectively disagree with much of this. We are more nourished than in any time in history irregardless of our medical advances. Though obviously on some level you can not separate the two because the same evil chemistry that gives rise to our medical treatments gives rise to the antibiotic laden foodstream and bioengineering. But if you were to examine simply the calories and food nutrients that we receive versus developing nations or vs. our own history, you’d be left with the inescapable conclusion that we now get more of what we need from our food. I know we get far more of what we don’t need than ever before as well, and this is important to combat and avoid, but my argument remains.

    The fact that our vitamin fortification is overdone and that’s why we piss out the extra unneeded amount is my point exactly. We have in spades what others wish they could have.

    Regarding my bold and misguided statement, you respond “how many africans live long enough to experience cancer to know the difference?” and that is a counter argument? It seems to support my assertion. If the point of eating is to live (and I’m pretty sure it is), then arguing that Africans don’t live long enough to experience cancer is my point exactly. In fact there is no good data on how much cancer and the like we would have seen in the 1800′s either at the ages we see them, because very few were living to those ages (and those who did were obviously not of average health).

    There is one measurement we can use to separate out the effects of medicine versus the effects of nutrition and that is body size. We are sized larger than we were 100 years ago (not just fatter but taller too) and that means, just like with a plant, that we are better nourished. Plain fact.

    I don’t want my comments to detract completely from your point, which is about the many bad things in our food. But I have this problem with arguments that are so dramatic that the enemy can easily counter with the many benefits of our modern food production and distribution and that can present a convincing and scientifically provable counter argument (as I have heard agribusiness mouthpieces do). To me the argument should START with how amazing our level of nutrition is and how many calories we get to how many mouths and then talk about why we need to replace the 60 year old strategies for producing and preserving these foods because the long term risks (cancer, poor infant health, etc.) no longer outweigh the benefits (reducing the risk of famine to near zero). The problem with saying our food is killing us is that it is misleading simply for dramatic effect. Our food is sustaining us. But it is also introducing many things in abundance that we either don’t need so much of or don’t want at all in our bodies. Our food is killing us very slowly while it keeps us alive for years and years. Not as dramatic, but surely more accurate.

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